Knitted jacket Mika designed by Marie Wallin
Elegant yet surprisingly warm, this draping jacket will be a joy to knit for fans of colourwork
PUTTING ON Marie Wallin’s draping jacket is like wrapping yourself in pure luxury; it has a cosy, almost indulgent feel, and its thick fabric will keep out the winter chills.
Worked in one piece to the armholes, the jacket has a diamond patterni ng on the body which is worked in subtle silver tones of Rowan Felled Tweed and Huffy Kidsilk Aura. The sleeves and wide borders feature a colourful Fair Isle design using five shades of Felted Tweed, which are knitted on.
The borders are then folded in half and stitched in place; this gives the front sections extra weight, which helps them to hang more elegantly, as well as giving the garment extra warmth. As the body is knitted in one piece to the armholes, you will need to use a circular needle to accommodate the large number of stitches. However, you will be working back and forth on these stitches, rather than working in the round. Marie has designed the garment in five different sizes, but given the relaxed fit of the jacket, these easily accommodate bust sizes from 32in to 50in.
THE BORDERS ARE KNITTED ON, THEN FOLDED IN HALF AND STITCHED IN PLACE; THIS GIVES THEM EXTRA WEIGHT TO HELP THEM HANG MORE ELEGANTLY ••
NEEDLES & ACCESSORIES
1 pair 3mm (UK 11/US 2-3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) knitting needles 1 pair 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) knitting needles 1 set 3.25mm (UK 10/US 3) circular needles
1 set 3.75mm (UK 9/US 5) circular needles
Main body: 26 sts and 24 rows to 10cm over patterned st st using 3.75mm needles.
Sleeves and borders: 26 sts and 29 rows to 10cm over patterned st st using 3.25mm needles.
All charts are read from right to left on RS rows (odd-numbered) and from left to right on WS rows (even-numbered). The Fair Isle technique is used for colourwork motifs; unused yarns are stranded at the WS of the work, and woven in if the yarn is carried over more than five stitches.
Rowan Felted Tweed (DK weight; 70% lambs wool, 26% kid mohair, 4% nylon; 140m/50g balls)
The body is worked i n one piece to the armholes.
Using 3.75mm circular needles and yarn A cast on 361 (385:409:433:457) StS.
Working first st as shown and repeating the 24stitch marked patt rep 15 (16:17:18:19) t i mes across each row, usi ng t he Fair Isle technique work from chart A.
Repeating t he 26 row pall rep throughout, cont to work straight until Body meas 32 (28:34:35:36) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.
DIVIDE FOR ARMHOLES
Next row (RS): Keepingpatterncorrect, patt 117(124:132:14(1:148) sts and slip these sis ontoa holder for Right Front, cast off next 6 (8:8:H:8) sts, patt until thereare 115 (121:129:137:145) sts on right needle after cast off and si ip these sts onto a second holder for Back, cast off next 6 (8:8:8:8) sts, patt toend.
Now working on straight needles, instead of circular needles, cont as foils:
Work on this lastset of 117(124:132:140:148) sts only for Left Front.
Keeping patt correct, dcc I statarmholc edge of next 4 rows, then on foil 4 (6:6:6:6) alt rows, then on 2 (1:1:! :1) foil 4th rows. 107(113:121:129:137) sts.
Cont straight until armhole meas 22 (23:24:25:26) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.
With WS facing, rejoin yarns to 115 (121:129:137:145) sts on 2nd holder and shape Back as foils:
Keeping patt correct, dec 1 st at each end of next 4 rows, then on fol 14 (< • :6:<>:6) alt rows, then on 2 (1:1:1:1) foil 4th rows.
95 (l>9:107:115:123) sts.
Cont straight until Back matches Left Front to cast – of f edge, e nd i ng w i t h RS faci ng for next row.
With WS facing, rejoin yarns to 117 (124:132:140:148) sts on first holder and shape Right Front as foils:
Keeping patt correct, dec I st at armhole edge of next 4 rows, then on fol 14 (n:6:<>:6) alt rows, thenon2(l:l:i:l) foil4th rows. 107(113:I21:121»:137) sis.
ConL straight until Right Front matches Left Front to cast off edge, endingwith RS facing for next row.
Using 3m m need les and yarn A cast on 57 (59:63:63:65) sts.
Row 1 (RS): Kl, *Pl, Kl; rep from * toend. Row 2: As row I.
These 2 rows form moss st.
Work in mossst fora further6 rows, endingwith RS facing for next row.
Fair Isle borders are folded back, so they look just as beautiful from both sides
Change to 3.25mm needles.
Next row (RS): UsingvarnC, knit.
Next row (WS): Usingvarn D, purl.
Repeating motifs as necessary across rows, and using the Fair Isle technique, repeat a 1128 rows of charts B to E i n order throughout, and work shaping as foil:
1 nc I st at each end of 3rd and every fol I 4lh row to 105 (105:101:107:109) sts, then on
2 (3:6: i:4) foil 6th rows, takingincstsinto patt. 109(111:113:115:117) Sts.
Cont straight until sleeve meas 44 (45:46:46:46) cm, ending with RS facing for next row.
Keeping patt cor reel, cast off 4 (5:5:5:5) sts at beg of next 2 rows, t hen 3 sts at beg of fol I 2 rows. 95 (9.S:97:99:101) StS.
Dec I st at each end of next 9 rows, then on foil 3 (9:10:11:12) alt rows, then on foil 15(5:5:o:5) rows, ending with RS facing for next row. 41 (49:49:49:49) StS. ?
In detail Picking up stitches
The Fair Isle borders are picked up and knitted from the body of the cardigan.
In order to pick up the stitches evenly, it is a good idea to divide the length into equal sections, using markers. Then you can be sure to spread them out neatly.
If you don’t end up picking up exactly the correct number of stitches, there’s no need to start again – you can just decrease or increase a stitch or two on the first row.
Cast off 3 (4:4:4:4) sts at beg of next 2 rows, then 4 (5:5:5:5) sts at beg of foil 2 rows.
Cast off rem 27 (31:31:31:31) sts.
Press gently, following any yarn care inslructions on the ball bands.
With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needle and yarn C, pick up and knit 361(385:409:433:457) StS along cast-on edge of Body.
Using the Fair Isle technique and repeating motifs as necessary along the row, now work in patt from charts in stocking stitch beg with a purl row.
Rows 1 to 16: Work 16 rows as set on chart F. Rows 17 to 21: Work 5 rows as set on chart C. Rows 22 to 26: Work 5 rows as set on chart D. Rows 27 to 30: W( >rk 4 rows as set on chart E. Rep rows 1 to 28 once.
Fold border in half to i nside and slip stitch in place.
Join sleeve seams. Matching final cast-off edge of sleeve to cast off edge of body, sew sleeves into arm holes.
With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needle and yarn C, pick up and knit 107(113:121:129:137)sts from cast- off edge of Right Front, 26 (30:30:30:30) sts from cast off edge of right Sleeve,
95 (99:107:115: 123) sts from cast off edge ofBack,26( 30:30:30:3O:)sts from cast off edge of left Sleeve, then 107 (113:121:129:137) sts from cast off edge of left Front.
361 (385:409:433:457) StS.
Work as given for hem border. Fold border in half to inside and slipstitch in place.
(Work both alike)
With RS facing, using 3.25mm circular needle and yarn C, pick up and knit 193 (l95:199: 203:207) sts evenly along one front opening edge, between folded edges of hem and top borders.
Using the Fair Isle technique and repeating motifs as necessary along the row, now work in patt from charts in stocking stitch beginning with a purl row.
Rows 1 to 16: Work 16 rows as set on chart F. Rows 17 to 21: Work 5 rows as set on chart C. Rows 22 to 26: Work 5 rows as set on chart D. Rows 27 to 30: Work 4 rows as set on chart F. Reprows 1 to 28 once.
Fold border in haIf to inside and slip stitch in place.
Weave in all ends and block gently to measurements.
See also woman knitted pullover
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